雪莉酒或許大家都聽過，對於那複雜的分級指度抑或有些害怕以及產生些距離感，不過先放下多餘的擔心，其實雪利酒並沒有太多複雜。我們先從雪莉酒這個詞彙開始探討，我們知道在西班牙的南部其實歷經了許多不同人種的戰爭與統治，從羅馬時代開始，腓尼基人大約於西元前 1100 年來到此處種植葡萄，當時這個城 市叫做 Xera，其實與現在我們習慣稱呼的 sherry、Jerez 有點雷同。羅馬帝國在長達 400 年間，不斷出口雪莉酒，也發展出雪莉酒的評鑑標準。接著阿拉伯人於西元 711 年統治西班牙南部直到 1264 年，他們稱此地為 Sherish，11 世紀開始英國人大量進口雪莉酒。17 世紀過後，英國人、蘇格蘭人、法國人、荷蘭人等紛紛在此地設酒廠，法定產區制度 Jerez-Xérès-Sherry (DO)興起，保護產區與酒款的品質。
顧名思義，所有的雪莉酒款必須在 El Puerto de Santa María、Jerez de la Frontera 與 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 三地之間生產才能使用法定產區 Jerez-Xérès-Sherry 的名稱。因為這裡擁有 levante 與 Poniente 的乾冷風、特殊白色土壤 albariza 以及在地酵母等天時地利人的情況下，才能產出真正的雪莉酒。在這三角地帶外其實有許多使用相同方式釀造的仿雪莉酒，不過在瓶身上都不能使用真正的雪莉酒作為名稱。
Albariza 這種土壤生成時間於 3400 萬年前，由山海間的沖刷與沈積累積而成， 表土呈現灰白色，是種植雪莉葡萄的必要土壤。雪莉葡萄酒的使用葡萄相當單純，畢竟當地十分炎熱，能產出的葡萄有限，其中最有名的就是 Palomino(一般的不 甜雪莉酒)、Pedro Ximenez (甜型雪莉酒)以及使用最少的 Moscatel 葡萄。
雪莉酒最有名的除了釀造方式外，再來就是陳年的系統:Criaderas 與 Soleras。 Criadera 代表的是將酒液注入大型橡木桶中陳年，Solera 系統就是透多很多層 Criadera 陳年的累計，將年輕的注入老的那一層，而老的那一層再注入到更老的那一層酒層之中，透過老母酒的方式累積出數十年的酒款。由於雪莉酒上自然而然會產生出一層酒花（flor），就算沒有將整個桶子注滿酒，酒花會保護葡萄酒避免極速氧化，於是自然而然的，酒並沒有壞掉，反而隱約多了一種特殊的氧化風味，時而類似堅果、蜂蜜，時而類似消毒水與指甲油，有點紹興又不那麼紹興的狂野風格，與台灣滷味的搭配倒是別有一番風味。
從 1838 年起，位於 Guadalete 河流口的古提拉雪莉酒莊（GUTIÉRREZ COLOSÍA）便開始生產雪莉酒，酒窖百餘年來並未改建，窖藏的位置就如同置身於老舊教 堂中，黑暗、原始、寬敞通風，遙遠漆黑的天花板與閣樓間的窗台建立了一個自體的循環通風系統，老舊漆黑的橡木桶裏承裝的是家族的血液，我熱愛這種概念，這種代代相傳在衝突碰撞與和諧中找到最棒的方式，這是家族的印記， 無論如何動盪，都無法抹滅的風土。每個酒莊都有個美麗瀟灑的傳承者，有趣 的是，我認識與我差不多世代的傳承者幾乎是女性，他們擁有著非同常人的堅持與傳教士般的執著，一面性的燃燒著家族的光輝，將最好的呈現給這個世 界。Carmen 就是這位女性，二十幾歲，從小耳濡目染雪莉酒的文化，小時候跟 著父母親在酒窖中工作、遊玩，現在 Carmen 除了是侍酒師、攝影師、建築師也是藝術家，她在酒莊旁打造了一個屬於自己的商品展售點，簡直就是小型的 美術館。看著一位美若天仙的金髮女孩穿著骯髒的吊帶褲，手中拿著量尺與斧 頭打造一張桌子，或者隨性地用 180 度反方向畫出一幅美麗的畫作，古提拉家 族留著藝術家的血、釀酒師的血。如同深杯子 La Copa Oscura 一如以往的作風，熱愛小型家族酒莊的精緻與熱血，傳道士般的一步步將原汁原味的道地引 領到世界的餐桌上。很高興終於找到了西班牙的小雪莉酒莊---古提拉雪莉酒莊 GUTIÉRREZ COLOSÍA。
Encomienda de Cervera Winery
In the heart of the Volcanic Massif of Campo de Calatrava at an altitude between 750 and 850 meters above sea level, in the term of the noble and cultural city of Almagro, delimited by the Sierra de Arzollar, the Cañada Real Soriana, between valleys and mountains with a high density of holm oaks and junipers, rosemary, thyme, etc., is the Finca Encomienda de Cervera, where you can distinguish the black lands of volcanic origin, the red ones (Almagre) that, according to some historians, give the name of the city of Almagro, and the limestone and rocky areas.
All this, under the watchful eye of the Maar de la Hoya de Cervera Volcano, declared a Natural Monument in 1999, the calm waters of one of the main tributaries of the Guadiana River, the Jabalón River.
The rugged orography, which configures its three rain basins, offers a peculiar microclimate, with cool nights that compensates for the daytime sunshine.
Three centuries of history
Encomienda De Cervera
Encomienda de Cervera has its origin in an estate owned by the Counts of Valdeparaiso, to which King Felipe V granted the title of Encomienda in 1741, and the right to close it. These concessions and privileges were ratified by King Ferdinand VI in 1748, and again by King Carlos III in 1758.
The 950-hectares property, located in the municipality of Almagro, on the banks of the Jabalón River, consists of three valleys surrounded by the volcanic massif of "Campo de Calatrava", made up of several Strombolian volcanoes including the Maar de Cervera, classified as a national monument since 1999.
There is evidence that, in 1741, the Estate had a Residential House, an olive grove made up of 300 olive trees as well as a vineyard of over 23.000 vines. In 1887, the olive grove had 1.775 olive trees as well as a mill with a press to make olive oil, and since 1927, the estate also has a cellar for winemaking.
Encomienda de Cervera
The wines signed by Encomienda De Cervera have unique characteristics, based on the peculiarity of the volcanic soil in which its vineyards are grown, the microclimate with cool nights generated by its three rain basins , which balance the acidity in the ripening season, and the altitude of its valleys and mountains (750-850 meters).
The harvest, which usually begins its season every September, is carried out selectively and in hours of lower temperature. The production of our wines is carried out in a meticulous and selective way, giving rise to wines with excellent aging qualities.
The varieties of the plantation allow our technical team to obtain extraordinary varietal and assembly wines.
Encomienda De Cervera
There is evidence that, in 1741, the estate had a hawthorn (vineyard) with 23,000 strains (vines). In addition, the old Tempranillo Cencibel vineyard has been expanded to 60 Ha., With the planting of other Tempranilloclones certified by the DO, Rioja (RJ-51), Ribera del Duero (CL-79) and Toro (CL306).
Over the years, new red grape varieties have been selected to produce new and excellent wines: Cabernet Sauvignon , Graciano , Merlot, Petit Verdot , Syrah .
The white grape varieties have been joined by Airén , Albariño , Chardonnay , Gewürztraminer , Sauvignon Blanc , and Verdejo .
These varieties are part of our Ecological Vineyards.
Encomienda De Cervera
The Concrete tanks room, which dates from 1927 , has been restored keeping the cement jars where our wines undergo Malolactic fermentation. This produces a very positive effect on them and gives it a very special creaminess.
In addition, we have expanded the old cellar with Ganimede technology , which allows alcoholic fermentation and high-quality controlled maceration, the Oak Barrel Room located below ground level has also been restored and conditioned to achieve high quality aging and reserves in the best conditions.
