Lipovac Winery 的葡萄園位於黑山風景最優美的地方。 Građani 斜坡環繞著該國著名的自然保護區斯卡達爾湖。這些巴爾幹地區一直以其葡萄酒而聞名,不過大多為國內自產自銷,LIPOVAC 葡萄酒莊之所以獨一無二,是因為除了傳統的釀酒技術:不銹鋼槽和法國橡木桶中的熟成的技巧外,釀酒師還使用雙耳瓶和 Qvevri 地下陶甕。這種釀酒方式自烏拉爾圖時代就已為人所知,可追溯到公元前 8 世紀左右。自 2011 年以來,這項技術已被列入聯合國教科文組織非物質文化遺產名錄。 Amphora 葡萄酒傳統,由古希臘人和羅馬人完善,就像一台時光機,讓時光倒流成為可能,享受我們祖先的飲品。
Lipovac Winery 於 2015 年在黑山歷史悠久的第二首都採蒂涅Cetinje,Građani 村成立。Ravil 公司是主要投資者,公司撥款建設 10 萬瓶產能的酒廠。它的主人說,顧客不僅可以得到用傳統酒桶和不銹鋼容器製作的葡萄酒,還可以用雙耳瓶和 Qvevri 瓶製作葡萄酒。目前,Građani 村的葡萄園包括 23,000 株葡萄藤。Ravil 公司計劃在不久的將來開設一家四星級酒店。
Ravil Shaikhutdinov / 莊主
我對黑山一見鍾情。當我第一次看到這個國家在美麗的風景和自然方面所提供的一切時,對我來說已經足夠了。我意識到,我對法國、義大利和格魯吉亞葡萄酒的長期熱情可能會在這片土地上變成現實。因此,我對歐洲釀酒藝術的熱情變成了一次大冒險。這次冒險試圖通過葡萄酒這樣生動獨特的產品來表達黑山土地的美麗。
Stefano Casadei / 合夥人,釀酒師
Lipovac 旨在通過利用各種栽培技術和種植本土葡萄品種,充分利用黑山土壤。我相信,這些本土葡萄品種將提供我們機會來生產出美妙且獨特的葡萄酒,這將成為我們土地美麗和高貴的活生生的見證。使用雙耳瓶讓葡萄酒獲得了最美好多變的層次,陶甕讓我們與葡萄的原產地再次聯繫在一起。這種所謂的“回歸過去”充分表達了 Lipovac 酒莊用歷史釀酒的意圖與概念。
2015 年,Lipovac 發布了他們的第一款葡萄酒。他們的名字是想法、模型和概念。這些是來自黑山的新酒。使用不銹鋼槽(1.5 至 10,000 升)、Barrique 木桶(225升),法國橡木桶只能使用三年,之後,它們就變得沒用,必須不斷地交換。Botti 是由新法國橡木製成的圓柱形桶(400 升),木材賦予葡萄酒精緻優雅的香草和丁香香氣,而葡萄酒的大部分香氣都來自這些香料,僅有頭兩年的木材才會有如此的辛香料感,因此 barrique 和 botti 必須定期更新。Tonneau,波爾多術語是指體積等於 4 個橡木桶的體積的大桶(1000升),在意大利,Tonneau被視為 550 升及以上的大型橡木桶。雙耳瓶酒 Amphora,酒款在粘土雙耳瓶中熟化而成。《從土地到土地》礫坡瓦Lipovac葡萄園釀酒師 Stefano Casadei 對這款酒進行了富有哲理的評價,這意味著葡萄在地裡生長、發酵、成熟,取自大地、熟成於大地、回歸於大地。Qvevri 也是一種雙耳瓶酒,它的特點是雙耳罐被埋在地下。這種釀酒技術自烏拉爾圖時代就為人所知,可以追溯到公元前 8 世紀左右。自 2011 年以來,它被列入聯合國教科文組織非物質文化遺產名錄。
想法、模型和概念 Idea、Model 和 Concept 三款葡萄酒代表了其原產國的悠久歷史。標籤上的符號由格拉哥裡字母(Glagolitic Alphabet)組成,是現存已知最古老的斯拉夫語言字母,代表向起源致敬。回到源頭,我們試圖保留黑山的歷史和傳統,在釀酒過程中使用農業的生物整合概念:從種植葡萄開始到裝瓶結束,規則是堅決不使用可能造成環境破壞的材料與技術。在綠色收穫過程中,我們從葡萄藤上摘下三分之二的果實,使剩下的三分之一獲得更多的糖分和礦物質,我們也不使用機器,因為重型技術將垂直壓力施加在土壤上,我們認為這對土質來說的影響也相當有限。為了達到與大自然和諧相處,所有葡萄都是手工採摘的,葡萄藤自然健康強壯,也提供高品質的葡萄,在在反映了它生長地區的風土特性。在過去的幫助下創造未來的葡萄酒(過去連結未來),我們相信這是我們的使命:「與自然和諧相處,意味著永不破壞其平衡。」。
葡萄園
我們的葡萄園遍布黑山最美麗地方的沃土。 Zagarach 和 Građani 是靠近斯卡達爾湖的斜坡,斯卡達爾湖是巴爾幹半島最大的湖泊,也是該國著名的自然保護區。我們沿著西南坡的石階種植葡萄藤,白天葡萄園中的石頭地塊會積聚並保留來自太陽的熱能,晚上再釋放回來,日夜溫差造就了葡萄獲得大量的糖分。葡萄園總面積 22 公頃,海拔 400 公尺,Građani 山坡非常適合種植 Morava 和 Gigiac 等白色本土原生品種。 Gradjani 位於黑山中部的山脈,高度海拔 400 公尺,岩石區富含粘土和沙子,氣候比較惡劣,溫差很大,從亞得里亞海吹來的風對氣候的影響很大。 Gigiac、Troika 或 Morava 等本土白葡萄品種在此生長,以礦物質特性、香氣而聞名。
Zagarach 是一個美妙的天然圓形劇場,被稱為“雲葡萄園”。 9 公尺高的石階梯田常在其腳下歇息,而栽種的藤蔓則始終向陽,氣候適合 Vranac 和 Kratosija(Primitivo)等紅葡萄品種生長,葡萄種植密度為每公頃5000 株。
新時代的見證
很難想像這個地區的釀酒傳統可以追溯到公元前 3 世紀,在各種考古發掘過程中發現的雙耳瓶和水壺證明了這一點。幾個世紀以來,葡萄栽培發展在此處發展的很好,並在人們的生活中起了重要作用。然而,在 15 至 19 世紀的中歷經無數次戰爭,尤其是土耳其入侵期間,一些地區的葡萄種植和葡萄酒生產大幅減少,甚至完全廢棄。直到 19 至 20 世紀間才有機會復興和開花。耕作的土壤和 Lipovac 葡萄園是新時代最好的見證。
Lipovac Winery is located in one of Montenegro’s most scenic regions. Nestled on the slopes of Građani, surrounding the country’s famed Lake Skadar National Park, this area of the Balkans has long been known for winemaking—though most production has historically remained local. What sets Lipovac Winery apart is not just its location, but its bold philosophy of blending traditional techniques like stainless steel tanks and French oak barrels with amphorae and Qvevri clay vessels buried underground.
These ancient winemaking methods date back to the Urartu civilization in the 8th century BCE, and in 2011, the Qvevri technique was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list. The amphorae wine tradition, perfected by the Greeks and Romans, is like a time machine—offering a taste of what our ancestors once enjoyed.
Lipovac Winery was founded in 2015 in the historic town of Cetinje, Montenegro’s former royal capital, in the village of Građani. The project is funded by Ravil Company, which invested in a winery with a production capacity of 100,000 bottles.
According to the owner, the aim was to offer wines not only from classic oak barrels and stainless steel but also from amphorae and Qvevri—bridging modern oenology with ancient heritage. Today, Građani’s vineyards include 23,000 vines, and Ravil Company has plans to open a four-star hotel on the estate in the near future.
“I fell in love with Montenegro at first sight. The beauty of its nature was more than enough. I realized that my long-standing passion for French, Italian, and Georgian wines could become a reality here. That’s how my fascination with European winemaking transformed into an adventure—one that aims to express the beauty of Montenegro through a living, expressive product like wine.”
“Lipovac aims to unlock the full potential of Montenegrin soil through a mix of cultivation techniques and local grape varieties. Indigenous grapes offer us the chance to create unique, noble wines that bear witness to the beauty of our land. Amphorae allow our wines to develop a beautifully layered complexity, while Qvevri reconnects us to the origins of wine itself. This ‘return to the past’ is at the heart of Lipovac’s philosophy.”
The first three wines released by Lipovac in 2015 were aptly named Idea, Model, and Concept—symbols of a new era for Montenegrin wine. Amphorae aging plays a central role, using clay vessels ranging from 1.5 to 10,000 liters. Oak barrels include:
These aging vessels add elegance and complexity, while maintaining the wine’s natural character.
Stefano Casadei describes the wine “From Land to Land” as a philosophical expression of grapes that grow, ferment, and mature in the earth—only to return to it. Qvevri, the underground clay vessels, have been part of winemaking since ancient times and reflect Lipovac’s deep respect for the past and its power to shape the future.
The labels of the Idea, Model, and Concept wines feature Glagolitic script—the oldest known Slavic alphabet—as a tribute to Montenegro’s cultural origins.
Lipovac adheres to a biologically integrated farming model. From vineyard to bottle, no materials or techniques are used that may harm the environment. During green harvesting, two-thirds of the grape clusters are removed so the remaining third can develop more concentration, sugar, and minerality. All grapes are hand-picked, and no heavy machinery is used to avoid soil compaction. The result is healthier vines and grapes that truly reflect their terroir.
“To live in harmony with nature is to never disturb its balance.”
Lipovac’s vineyards are planted in some of Montenegro’s most fertile lands—Zagarach and Građani, both located on hillsides near Lake Skadar, the largest lake in the Balkans and a protected natural reserve.
The winemaking tradition in this region dates back to the 3rd century BCE. Amphorae and jugs unearthed in local excavations testify to its ancient roots. For centuries, viticulture thrived here, playing a central role in community life.
However, repeated invasions—particularly during the Ottoman period—nearly extinguished wine production in some regions. Only in the 19th and 20th centuries did viticulture begin to recover. Today, Lipovac’s cultivated lands stand as a living witness to this revival, uniting past and present in every bottle.